Seals and the signet ring

A seal can be a figure impressed in wax, clay, or some other medium, or embossed on paper, with the purpose of authenticating a document.

Seals were historically most often impressed in sealing wax (often simply described as “wax”): in the Middle Ages, this generally comprised a compound of about two-thirds beeswax to one-third of some kind of resin.

Wax seals were being used on a fairly regular basis by most western royal chanceries by about the end of the 10th century. In England, few wax seals have survived of earlier date than the Norman Conquest, although some earlier matrices (the device for making a seal) are known, recovered from archaeological contexts: the earliest is a gold double-sided matrix found near Postwick, Norfolk, and dated to the late 7th century.

Signet ring and seal from Dexter with the tinctures of the shield made hatched (vertical lines for azure).

Seals are used to primarily to authenticate documents. There are two main ways in which a seal may be attached to a document. It may be applied directly to the face of the paper or parchment (an applied seal); or it may hang loose from it (a pendent seal). A pendent seal may be attached to the document by cords or ribbons (sometimes in the owner’s livery colours); by a strip (or tag) of parchment threaded through a slot cut in the document, with its two ends joined together by the seal.

Applied seals were used on letters close (letters intended only for the recipient) and parcels to indicate whether or not the item had been opened or tampered with since it had left the sender, as well as providing evidence that the item was actually from the sender and not a forgery. In the post-medieval period, seals came to be commonly used in this way for private letters. A letter writer would fold the completed letter, pour wax over the joint formed by the top of the page, and then impress a signet ring (from Latin “signum” meaning sign) or other seal matrix.

Full achievements and crest engraved by Dexter's in gold, silver and Sardonyx (blue/red).

Signet rings, in recent times generally bearing a coat of arms, are made by intaglio engraving, either in metal or engraved gems (generally semiprecious). Agate is a frequent material, especially carnelian or banded agate like sardonyx; the banding make the impression contrast with the ground. Most classical engraved gems were originally worn as signet rings.

The Prince of Wales, wearing his signet ring en bagarre on the little finger.

Because it is used to attest the authority of its bearer, the ring has also been seen as a symbol of his power, which is one explanation for its inclusion in the regalia of certain monarchies. After the death of a Pope, the destruction of his signet ring is a prescribed act clearing the way for the sede vacante and subsequent election of a new Pope.

The wearing of signet rings goes back to ancient Egypt; the distinctive personal signature was not developed in antiquity and most documents needed a seal. The tradition continues, especially among the armigerous, in European and some other cultures.

Signet rings are traditionally worn on the ring finger (if not already occupied by the wedding ring) or the little finger on the wedding ring free hand. In France the signet ring is traditionally worn by men on the ring finger of their left hand and women on their little finger. An older Swedish manual teaches that the signet ring should be worn on the little finger by both men and women. In addition the ring can be worn with the tip of the shield either facing the finger nail (en baise-main) or facing the knuckle (en bagarre). The en bagarre position (i.e. ”closed”) is traditionally used to indicate that the wearer is married. The thing one can say with certainty regarding the manner of wear is that the practice differs both within and between countries.

H.M. King Carl XVI Gustaf of Sweden wearing his signet ring on the little finger and what looks like en baise-main.

Regarding the wear of a signet ring (or any ring, really) my personal opinion is, well, less is more. One ought to try to limit ones finger adornment to a maximum of one ring per hand. If two rings are worn on the same hand, try wearing them on the same finger – like H.M. the King above – wearing the wedding ring and the signet ring on the same finger. Not wearing the wedding ring on the ring finger but the little finger together with the signet ring probably originates from the fact that it is much easier and more comfortable to grip the horse’s bridle with the rings this way.

King John of England ("Sansterre") wearing his rings en masse, presumably at least one is a signet ring with the plantagenet badge.

Let me know if you have pictures of other renowned signet ring wearers!

I personally can recommend Dexter Seal Engraving because of their genuine craftsmanship and excellent quality work!

J. Arnell
B. Roetzel
Wikipedia
Dexter Seal Engraving

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